Additional Information:
Ryōzenji is about a half-hour's bus ride from the bus terminal in the center of downtown Tokushima City. The bus stop where you get off is conveniently located directly in front of the temple and is, appropriately enough, called Ryōzenji Mae. The street outside the temple and directly across from the sanmon is lined with minshuku and shops all for use by henro.
It is said that Ryōzenji was founded by Gyōgi (668-749) in the 8th century on the orders of Emperor Shōmu. Even though scholars don't think Gyōgi ever came to Shikoku, more than thirty of the temples claim him as their founder.
Kōbō Daishi came here in 815 and, while here, had a vision of Shaka Nyorai preaching the Lotus Sutra on Vulture's Peak (Ryōjusan). To commemorate the vision he carved the honzon and gave the temple its name.
Like so many of the other temples on Shikoku, the temple was burned down in the 16th century by Chōsokabe Motochika, the daimyō of Tosa Province, during the Tenshō Era, 1573-1592. It was burned down again in the 19th century — i'm assuming during the violent reaction against Buddhism at the beginning of the Meiji Period. The present temple was rebuilt in 1964.
The honzon here is famous among local high school students for promising academic success at the university. Besides the statue of Sakyamuni, there are statues of Dainichi and Amida in the temple, also said to have been carved by Kōbō Daishi. There is a large koi pond in the temple courtyard with a statue of Kōbō Daishi looking on.
Henro can purchase all of the supplies they need for the pilgrimage (nōkyōchō, kongotsue, sugegasa, hakui, etc.) in either of two stores, one next to the parking lot in front of the temple and one inside the hondō at the back of the compound. Morning services (otsutome) and a setting-off ceremony used to be held in the mornings starting at 5:30 am, but i recently read somewhere (i don't remember where) that these services are no longer held.
Even though all of the other temples on the henro trail have one or another legend associated with it, number one does not. When Oliver Statler asked about this, he was told that just being called number one was sufficient. Being considered the first was enough to draw people to its compounds. A legend apparently wasn't needed to ensure its prosperity.
Of course, you don't have to start here. Ryōzenji doesn't have to be the first temple you visit. In fact, for many henro it isn't the first. Many henro start at the temple closest to where they live and make the circle from there. But, because it is close to the port where you land when you come from Wakayama-ken and Mt. Kōya, because it is close to where you would end up if you brought a bus or ferry from ōsaka, Kobe, and Kyōto, this is where the majority of people have always started. For the vast majority of us, this temple will always be thought of as the first.
Be sure to visit the "German House," about ten minute's walk from the temple heading towards Temple 2. (see my journal for more information on this)
