The eighteenth temple is Onzan-ji (恩山寺), dedicated to Yakushi Nyorai and set on a quiet, wooded hillside near Komatsushima.
It lies about 4.0 km from the nineteenth temple, with the path winding pleasantly through the trees.
There is no gate at the entrance to Onzan-ji; instead, stone towers and a flight of stone steps mark the way in.
Climbing up beneath the trees, the temple reveals itself only gradually, which suits its gentle, secluded mood.
This is the main hall, where Yakushi Nyorai is enshrined. The temple is famous as the place where Kōbō Daishi, through a seven-day rite, lifted the old ban that had kept women from entering.
I offered incense and recited the sutra, conscious of the tenderness in the story attached to this hall.
Next, at the Daishi-dō, I recited the Heart Sutra and prayed, as always, for the safety of my family and for peace in the world.
Given that this temple honours Kōbō Daishi’s devotion to his own mother, a prayer for family felt especially fitting here.
A statue of Kōbō Daishi stands as though forever watching over the pilgrims who pass through.
It is a reassuring presence, a quiet reminder of the old idea that the Daishi walks the road alongside every traveller.
There are many Jizō statues here too, large and small, gathered about the grounds.
Their gentle, weathered faces give the place a warm and watchful feeling as you walk among them.
NFT – Crypto Ohenro #71 Goshuin of Onzan-ji（恩山寺） –
This is the goshuin of the eighteenth temple, Onzan-ji, a quiet keepsake of this temple of a mother’s love.
Seventeen temples still remained on my journey, the road turning now toward the coast.
The distance to the next temple was about 18.0 km — a long stretch lay ahead.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the honzon (principal image) of Onzan-ji (Temple 18)?
The honzon (principal image) of Onzan-ji（恩山寺）, Temple 18 of the Shikoku 88 pilgrimage, is Yakushi Nyorai（薬師如来）. It is enshrined in the temple's main hall (hondō), where pilgrims offer incense, recite the Heart Sutra, and receive the temple's goshuin (hand-brushed seal).
Where is Onzan-ji located?
Onzan-ji stands in Komatsushima, Tokushima Prefecture, in the old province of Awa, on the island of Shikoku, Japan. It is the eighteenth of the eighty-eight temples of the Shikoku Henro, the circular Buddhist pilgrimage walked in the path of Kōbō Daishi (Kūkai).
Which Buddhist sect does Onzan-ji belong to?
Onzan-ji belongs to the Kōyasan school of Shingon Buddhism. Its mountain name (sangō), the traditional honorific title by which the temple is also known, is Boyōzan Hōju-in（母養山 宝樹院）.
When was Onzan-ji founded?
Onzan-ji was founded by Gyōki; Kōbō Daishi (Kūkai) practised here c. 814. Its history is closely tied to the early growth of the Shikoku pilgrimage.
Which temple comes after Onzan-ji, and how far is it?
The next temple on the route is Temple 19, Tatsue-ji (about 4.0 km). Walking in numerical order, pilgrims continue from Onzan-ji to keep visiting each of the 88 temples and collecting their goshuin.
📖 See the full list of all 88 Shikoku temples →
Can’t make the pilgrimage yourself?Ohenro Gift can walk the 88 temples on your behalf (daisan) and deliver the completed nokyocho.