The twenty-third temple is Yakuō-ji (薬王寺), one of Japan’s most famous temples for warding off misfortune, dedicated to Yakushi Nyorai.
It stands a very long 75.4 km from the twenty-fourth temple — by far the greatest gap so far, and the start of a hard coastal march toward Cape Muroto.

This is the entrance to Yakuō-ji. Perhaps because it had been newly rebuilt, the gate was an unusual colour, fresh and bright against the sky.
It set a cheerful tone for a temple devoted to driving away bad luck.

This is the main hall, where Yakushi Nyorai is enshrined.
I climbed the temple’s well-known “unlucky-age” steps on the way up — thirty-three for women, forty-two for men — and offered incense and the sutra before the hall.

This is the Daishi-dō. Before this quiet hall, with few sightseers about, I calmed my mind and recited the Heart Sutra.
There is a particular peace in praying somewhere so still.

The corridor of the deserted hall, with no sign of anyone about, created a wonderfully mysterious, hushed space.
I lingered a moment in that quiet before turning back.
NFT – Crypto Ohenro #66 Goshuin of Yakuō-ji(薬王寺) –

This is the goshuin of the twenty-third temple, Yakuō-ji. With it, I had now completed three-quarters of the eighty-eight temples — a real milestone on the road.
Even so, twenty-two temples still remained on my journey, and the longest, loneliest stretch was about to begin.
The distance to the next temple was about 20.7 km, with the great Muroto coast waiting beyond.

Frequently Asked Questions
What is the honzon (principal image) of Yakuō-ji (Temple 23)?
The honzon (principal image) of Yakuō-ji(薬王寺), Temple 23 of the Shikoku 88 pilgrimage, is Yakushi Nyorai(薬師如来). It is enshrined in the temple's main hall (hondō), where pilgrims offer incense, recite the Heart Sutra, and receive the temple's goshuin (hand-brushed seal).
Where is Yakuō-ji located?
Yakuō-ji stands in Minami, Tokushima Prefecture, in the old province of Awa, on the island of Shikoku, Japan. It is the twenty-third of the eighty-eight temples of the Shikoku Henro, the circular Buddhist pilgrimage walked in the path of Kōbō Daishi (Kūkai).
Which Buddhist sect does Yakuō-ji belong to?
Yakuō-ji belongs to the Kōyasan school of Shingon Buddhism. Its mountain name (sangō), the traditional honorific title by which the temple is also known, is Iōzan Muryōju-in(医王山 無量寿院).
When was Yakuō-ji founded?
Yakuō-ji was founded by Kōbō Daishi (Kūkai) in 815 as a temple for warding off misfortune. Its history is closely tied to the early growth of the Shikoku pilgrimage.
Which temple comes after Yakuō-ji, and how far is it?
The next temple on the route is Temple 24, Hotsumisaki-ji (about 75.4 km). Walking in numerical order, pilgrims continue from Yakuō-ji to keep visiting each of the 88 temples and collecting their goshuin.
📖 See the full list of all 88 Shikoku temples →
Can’t make the pilgrimage yourself?Ohenro Gift can walk the 88 temples on your behalf (daisan) and deliver the completed nokyocho.