The eighty-eighth temple is usually the very last of the pilgrimage — but walking the route in reverse, as I did, it becomes the first.
It enshrines Yakushi Nyorai, and is the place of kechigan, where pilgrims fulfil their vow.
At this first temple, then, I had to prepare the gear for the journey — and most important of all, the sutra book for reciting the scriptures.
Setting out, there was a real sense of a long road about to begin.
At the entrance to Ōkubo-ji a gate stands wreathed in trees, like a doorway into another world.
Passing beneath it, you feel you are crossing a true threshold.
A pair of giant straw sandals, some two metres tall, are displayed at the gate. Who could ever wear them — were there giants twelve hundred years ago?
Their sheer size raises a smile even as it impresses.
There is a guide here for pilgrims.
A helpful first orientation for the journey ahead.
A remarkable statue of Kōbō Daishi, full of quiet power, is also well worth seeing.
It feels fitting to begin in his presence.
From here the way leads on into the temple proper.
Each step now carried the weight of the journey to come.
As the temple is properly the last of the route, the staffs of pilgrims who have completed the circuit are kept here — a remarkable number of them gathered together.
To see so many was a moving glimpse of all who had walked before.
This is the main hall, where Yakushi Nyorai is enshrined. First I recited the Heart Sutra here.
Kōbō Daishi is said to have dedicated here a staff handed down to him from his master in China.
Next, at the Daishi-dō, I again recited the Heart Sutra, and offered prayers for the safety of my family and for peace in the world.
Beginning the journey with these prayers felt right.
Having finished reciting, I received the temple seal as proof of my visit, in exchange for a small offering.
That first seal in the book marked the true start of the pilgrimage.
NFT – Crypto Ohenro #01 Goshuin of Ōkubo-ji（大窪寺） –
This is the temple seal of the eighty-eighth temple, Ōkubo-ji — truly impressive, and for me the first seal of the whole journey.
From here, eighty-seven temples still lay ahead before the book would be filled.
The journey had only just begun, and the long road stretched out before me.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the honzon (principal image) of Ōkubo-ji (Temple 88)?
The honzon (principal image) of Ōkubo-ji（大窪寺）, Temple 88 of the Shikoku 88 pilgrimage, is Yakushi Nyorai（薬師如来）. It is enshrined in the temple's main hall (hondō), where pilgrims offer incense, recite the Heart Sutra, and receive the temple's goshuin (hand-brushed seal).
Where is Ōkubo-ji located?
Ōkubo-ji stands in Sanuki, Kagawa Prefecture, in the old province of Sanuki, on the island of Shikoku, Japan. It is the eighty-eighth of the eighty-eight temples of the Shikoku Henro, the circular Buddhist pilgrimage walked in the path of Kōbō Daishi (Kūkai).
Which Buddhist sect does Ōkubo-ji belong to?
Ōkubo-ji belongs to the Shingon Buddhism (Daikakuji school). Its mountain name (sangō), the traditional honorific title by which the temple is also known, is Iōzan Henjōkō-in（医王山 遍照光院）.
When was Ōkubo-ji founded?
Ōkubo-ji was founded by Kōbō Daishi (Kūkai) in 815. Its history is closely tied to the early growth of the Shikoku pilgrimage.
Which temple comes after Ōkubo-ji, and how far is it?
The next temple on the route is Temple 1, Ryōzen-ji (to close the circle). Walking in numerical order, pilgrims continue from Ōkubo-ji to keep visiting each of the 88 temples and collecting their goshuin.
📖 See the full list of all 88 Shikoku temples →
Can’t make the pilgrimage yourself?Ohenro Gift can walk the 88 temples on your behalf (daisan) and deliver the completed nokyocho.